Page 88 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT
P. 88

Textile & Handloom                                  Related Theory for Exercise 1.6.49-53
       Shawl Weaving Artisan - Wet Processing

       Introduction to wet processing and preparation of fabrics

       Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
       •  explain textile wet processing and various stages involved in wet processing.

       Textile wet processing is a series of chemical and   3  Scouring: Actually pure wet processing operation
       mechanical treatments that are used to alter the        starts from scouring, which is the process of removing
       appearance, performance, and durability of textile      natural oils, waxes, and impurities from raw cotton
       materials after they have been woven or knitted, but    or other natural fibers. Scouring is done by using a
       before  they  are  made  into  finished  products. These   combination of water and chemicals like soda ash,
       techniques are performed using water or other liquids,   sodium hydroxide, and hydrogen peroxide.
       which is why they are referred to as “wet processing”.  4  Bleaching: The next stage is bleaching, which is the

       Flowchart of textile wet processing                     process of removing natural color from fibers or fabrics
       Flowchart of textile wet processing is given below image.   and making them whiter. Bleaching is done by using
                                                               chemicals such as hydrogen peroxide or chlorine.
       (Fig 1)
                                                               The most common method is the use of hydrogen
        Fig 1                                                  peroxide in the presence of catalysts like sodium
                        Grey textile Materials                 silicate, sodium hydrosulfite or sodium formaldehyde
                                                               sulfoxylate.
                             Singeing
                                                            5  Mercerization:  Mercerization  is  a  process  that
                             Desizing                          increases the luster, strength, and dye ability of cotton
                                                               fabrics. It is done by treating the fabric with a caustic
                                                               soda solution, which causes the fibers to swell and
                             Scouring
                                                               become more receptive to dyes.
                             Bleaching                      6  Dyeing: The process of dyeing is used to add color to
                                                               fibers or fabrics. Dyeing can be done using a variety of
                            Mercerizing                        techniques, such as immersion dyeing, yarn dyeing,
                                                               and piece dyeing. Different types of dyes are used for
             Dyeing                           Printing
                                                               different fibers, such as acid dyes for protein fibers,
                             Finishing                         and disperse dyes for synthetic fibers.
                                                            7  Printing: Printing  is  a  process  that  uses  dyes  or
                       Finished Textile Materials              pigments to create patterns or designs on fabrics.
                                                               There are various methods of printing such as screen
       The various stages of wet processing are as follows:    printing, digital printing, roller printing, block printing
       1  Singeing: Actually singeing is not a textile wet     and rotary printing.
          processing process. But before starting wet       8  Finishing:  Finishing  is  the  last  stage  of  wet
          processing, singeing operation is done to remove     processing, which includes various mechanical and
          protruding and hairy fibers from fabric. Singeing is a   chemical treatments to improve the appearance,
          process of passing an open-width fabric over a gas   performance, and durability of the textile. Finishing
          flame at such a distance and speed that it burns only   techniques can include softening, stiffening, water
          the protruding fibers but does not damage the main   repellent, wrinkle-free, anti-microbial, UV protection,
          fabric. The main objective of the singeing process is   flame resistant etc.
          to produce a clean fabric surface and reduce fabric
          pilling tendency by removing the protruding fibers from   These processes are often used in combination to
          the fabric surface.                               achieve the desired result. It’s important to note that the
                                                            order of the stages may vary depending on the specific
       2  Desizing: Desizing is a process in wet processing that   application, the type of textile and the desired final result.
          is used to remove the sizing material (a starch-based
          or synthetic material) that is applied to yarn or fabric   Importance of textile wet processing
          during the weaving process. This sizing material is   Textile wet processing is an essential part of the textile
          used to make the yarn or fabric stronger and more   industry,  as  it  is  used  to  improve  the  appearance,
          stable, but it must be removed before the fabric can   performance, and durability of the textile. The importance
          be dyed or printed.                               of wet processing can be summarized as follows:





       78
   83   84   85   86   87   88   89   90   91   92   93